It uses Hitachisequential electronic fuel injection, and features cast steel connecting rods, a half-counterweighted cast steel crankshaft, and a cast aluminum cylinder head. Wierd.The KA24E was a SOHC 12-valve engine produced from July 1988 through January 1997. I've never heard of timing jumping just by touching it. Try swapping out the dizzy with another one and see if your timing problems persist. So here's another perfect example of the "Go cheap, get cheap" argument.Īs for your problem, sounds like you have a faulty cap, or maybe a failing dizzy. The UR pulleys have this problem addressed by resleeving, or something like that. Something about the clearance on the center hole of the pulley being off. They have timing marks already on them and I've owned one in the past and never had any problems.Īlso FYI, the ebay pulleys (and maybe OBX too) leak at the front main seal. So I'm just going to re-smog the car, and get a UR pulley. So he must have read the timing based on the wrong marks and said."DAMN 29* advanced." So here's my conclusion, the tech that smogged my car must have checked the timing, but the timing marks on the aftermarket pulley are not accurately placed. Well, I thought that about the dizzy teeth, so I decided to put the stock pulley back on and recheck, the timing. I retarded the timing back to where the distributor looked like in the FSM picture (read about 10* then on the light), and I touch the cap at a certain area and the timing jumped up to 20* To drop the idle I have to squease the IACV hose on the intake a few times.Įdit: when I touch the distributor cap around the ignition coil (s14)the timing changes completely. This is 20*, however something is seriously retarding my timing, and its inconsistant at best.Īlso, when I unplug the TPS, and start the engine the engine surges to about 2k rpms and stays there. If you pull the cap off and move the crank to 20* BTDC on cylinder 1, the rotor should point directly to plug 1 on the cap. I have the move the distributor almost all the way advanced, which in turn distances the rotor from the dizzy cap pins, which causes corrosion and a weaker spark. I think these might have something to do with the timing being pulled (or even code 105 for EGR solenoid). I dont have any sensors, and I think the VSS, nuetral position switch. This makes me believe there are more things that affect timing than the KS which is bypassed at the ECU. After the engine is warm, the timing slowly falls to around 15*. During warm up (nismo t-stat) the timing is 20* with the dizzy is centered like in the FSM picture. I have mine completely centered and aligned. It needs to be just like the picture in the FSM.
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